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| PROBLEM |
CAUSATIVE AGENT |
RESPONSE |
| Cloudy Water |
Poor Circulation/Filtrations |
Cloudy water is most
often caused by inadequate circulation/filtration, either signifying that the daily filter
run is not long enough or the filter itself is dirty. To resolve, extend the daily
filtration cycle and/or clean the filter with Filter Cleaner Degreaser.
|
| Improper Water Balance |
If your water appears
cloudy and the traditional clarifying methods do not seem to clear it up, test your total
alkalinity and pH levels. High readings of either can cause cloudy water. Follow the
directions on your test kit or see you professional pool dealer to make any necessary
adjustments.
|
| Swimmer Waste |
Body oils,
perspiration, suntan oil and other swimmer wastes can cause cloudiness. Shocking the pool
water with 1 lb of Breakout, or 1 ½ lb of Breakout 35, or Quick Clear
per 10,000 gallons will break up and remove these wastes.
|
| High Total Dissolved Solids (TDS), Calcium Hardness (CH), or
Cyanuric Acid Levels |
Test your pool water
to be sure the TDS, CH, and Cyanuric Acid levels are within the acceptable ranges. (You
may have to bring your water to your professional pool dealer for accurate testing.) If
any one of these factors is too high, drain up to ½ of the pool water and replace with
fresh water low in TDS and CH.
|
| Chemical Residue |
Calcium hypochlorite
chemicals, such as HTH, leave behind chemical residues because they don’t dissolve
out completely. If you are using calcium hypochlorite as your sanitizer, consider
switching to a 100% soluble stabilized chlorinating product such as Omni Stabilized
Chlorinating Granules, Tablets, or Sticks.
|
| Algae Growth |
Green Algae |
If treated quickly,
green algae is relatively easy to kill, being a free floating algae. Shock the pool in the
evening with 1 lb of Breakout per 10,000 gallons. The next morning, add a
concentrated multi-purpose algaecide such as Algaecide 60 at a rate of 1 qt per
10,000 gallons. Keep the filter system operating throughout the elimination process and
brush any dead algae that settles onto the floor of your pool into the main drain for
removal. If green algae is left untreated, surface attachment can occur making treatment
very difficult.
|
Blue-Green Algae
"Black Algae" |
Blue-green algae is a
very hardy, difficult to kill algae that grows as small black dots or patches on the walls
and bottom of improperly treated pools. Killing "black algae" takes time and
persistence. Brush all affected areas well, using a stainless steel bristle brush for
plaster pools. Brushing is the only way to remove the algae’s protective covering to
make it susceptible to chemical treatment. Shock the pool in the evening with 2 lbs of Breakout
per 10,000 gallons. The next morning add a concentrated multi-purpose algaecide such as Algaecide
60 at a rate of 1 qt per 10,000 gallons. Continue brushing the algae affected areas following the chemical treatment until the algae is gone.
|
| Mustard Algae |
Mustard algae is
another hard to kill variety frequently found growing on the shaded side of the pool.
Mustard algae is usually yellow or yellowish brown in color and is easily brushed off the
walls of the pool. Treat mustard algae with the same procedure as "black" algae.
Brush the visible algae areas, shock at night, and treat with Mustard Master the
following morning. Both the "black" and mustard algae are very resistant to
chemical treatment, so more than one application may be necessary.
|
| Colored Water |
Clear Green Water |
Clear green water
indicates a presence of copper or iron in the pool water. First, bring a water sample to
your professional pool dealer to test the levels. Then, to treat, add a chelating agent
such as Stain and Scale Control at a rate of 1 qt per 10,000 gallons for every 1ppm
of copper or iron. Chelating agents attract and combine metals so they can be filtered
out. Run your filtration system and do not allow your sanitizer level above 1.0 ppm for 72
hours after the addition of the chelating agent. You also should check and adjust if
necessary, your pH and total alkalinity levels. If the pool water is too acidic, the
equipment will deteriorate and in turn, put more metals into the water defeating the
purpose of using a chelating agent.
|
| Cloudy Green Water |
Cloudy green water is
caused by presence of green algae. Follow treatment schedule for green algae detailed
above.
|
| Reddish Brown Water |
This is caused by
iron. Iron is a precipitate of minerals in the water (alkalinity, calcium) that are
allowed to build up and corrode light fixtures, ladders, rails, and even plumbing. Test
and adjust the pH, total alkalinity and calcium hardness levels, then add a chelating
agent to the pool water.
|
| Grayish Black Water |
Manganese or other
heavy metals, including silver cause the water to appear greyish black. Test and adjust as
necessary, the pH, alkalinity and calcium levels, followed by a chelating agent treatment.
Remember, the precipitated metal might have also come from another chemical product you
have used for algae control.
|
| Stains |
Metals Precipitating Out Of Solution |
Most stains are
caused by metals plating out on the pool surfaces. New stains can usually be removed by
first adding 2 lbs of Pool Stain Treat per 10,000 gallons and second, brushing the
stains vigorously. Older stains on a plaster pool may require acid washing. Ask your
dealer for suggestions.
|
| Scale |
Calcium Hardness Level is Too High |
Scale is a build up
of calcium carbonate precipitated out of water by evaporation or heat. It can form on pool
walls, inside pipes, heat exchangers, and other pool equipment. Of course, excessive
amounts of calcium need to be in the water in the first place for this formation to occur.
If your pool water has a high calcium hardness level, replace up to ½ of the volume of
the pool with water low in calcium. If the source water is high in calcium, initially
treat water with 1 qt. Of Stain and Scale Control per 10,000 gallons, keep pH
between 7.2 and 7.4 and add a 4 oz per 10,000 gallons maintenance dose of Stain and
Scale Control once a month.
|
| Rough Plaster |
Calcium Hardness Level is Too Low |
If the plaster
surface in your pool begins to get rough, it is a sure sign that your calcium hardness is
too low. The pool water must have a calcium hardness level of at least a 225ppm. If the
calcium hardness is not properly balanced out, calcium will actually be pulled from the
plaster (causing roughness) to satisfy the demand for it. Maintaining a calcium hardness
level between 225 and 300 ppm will avoid this problem
|
| Foaming |
Overuse Of Some Types Of Algaecides |
To treat, use ¼ qt Defoamer
per 10,000 gallons to first eliminate the foaming problem. Then switch to a non-foaming
algaecide such as Algaecide 60 to prevent future foaming.
|
| Excessive Build-up Of Suntan Oils, Soap Residues or Other
Contaminants |
When your filter
becomes too dirty, it can no longer effective remove bather wastes from the pool water.
The solution is to clean your filter with Tri-Sodium Phosphate (TSP) or Filter
Cleaner Degreaser and shock the pool water with 1 lb Of Breakout or 1 ½ lbs of
Breakout 35 or Quick Clear per 10,000 gallons.
|
| Eye Or Skin Irritation |
High Levels Of Chloramines |
Chloramines are
unwanted chemical compounds formed when free chlorine molecules combine with bather wastes
such as body oils, hair oils, perspiration, etc., etc. When the pool’s free,
available chlorine is insufficient to oxidize the chloramines, you will have the
characteristic chlorine odor and eye or skin irritation complaints. To destroy the
chloramines, shock with 1 lb of Breakout per 10,000 gallons or follow your chlorine
manufacturer’s instructions for super-chlorination.
|
| Low pH level |
When the pH is
allowed to drop below the suggested range of 7.4 to 7.8 the water is acidic, and can cause
skin and eye irritation. Test the pool water and make any necessary adjustments to your pH
and total alkalinity levels.
|
| Bromine Level |
Bromine is rarely a
cause of eye and skin irritation.
|
| Colored Hair, Nails, Or Skin |
High Levels Of Chloramines |
Chloramines, when in
high enough levels can cause skin, hair and nails to become discolored. The most
susceptible are light-skinned, blonde haired (natural or dyed) persons. Again, to destroy
the chloramines, shock with 1 lb of Breakout per 10,000 gallons or follow your
chlorine manufacturer’s instructions for super-chlorination.
|
| Bromine or Chlorine Levels Are Low
or Nonexistent |
Excess Organic Wastes – Sanitizer Demand Is Not Being
Met |
Sanitizer demand can
be defined as the amount of any chlorine or bromine product needed to kill all the
bacteria and absorb all the foreign matter present in a body of water. If this demand has
not been met, there is not enough sanitizer residual left in the water. (Sanitizer
residual is the amount of chlorine or bromine that is left over after the demand has been
satisfied.) The sanitizer residual level is what is tested for in the pool. To satisfy the
demand and establish a residual, you must superchlorinate with 2 lbs of Breakout per
10,000 gallons, then continue with your regular sanitizer schedule.
|
| Chlorine Or Bromine Level Is Too High |
If your sanitizer
level is too high it can actually bleach out the testing powder or solution leading you to
believe that there is no residual in the water. Dilute the test water with 50% tap water
and retest. If your test kit then registers a sanitizer level, multiply that level by 2 to
get the actual reading. Then see your professional pool dealer for suggestions.
|
| Chlorinator Or Brominator Is Not Functioning Properly |
To work properly,
your Chlorinator or Brominator must contain chemicals and must allow sufficient water
flow. Check to be sure that your feeder isn’t plugged or empty. Since most feeders
operate only when the pump is running, you must be sure to operate the pump and feeder for
at least 8 hours per day. Operate for a longer period of time if this is not sufficient.
|
| Inactive Or Old Test Kit Reagents |
For optimum results,
be sure to replace your reagents at the beginning of each pool season.
|
| Low Cyanuric Acid Level |
In chlorinated pools,
a cyanuric acid or stabilizer level below 25 ppm can make it very difficult to maintain
the proper chlorine level due to the dissipation effect of sunlight on unstablized
chlorine. To resolve, first be sure you are using a stabilized form of chlorine such as Omni
Stabilized Chlorinating Granules, Tablets or Sticks. Second test you cyanuric acid
level at the beginning and middle of each season and add stabilizer as needed to initiate
and maintain a 40 to 80 ppm level of cyanuric acid.
|
| Excessive Chlorine Or Bromine Usage |
Pool Water Is Out Of Balance |
Most residential
pools should use from 1 to 2 lbs of Omni Stabilized Chlorine or 1 to 3 lbs of Omni
Bromine Tablets per 10,000 gallons each week. These numbers are guidelines – the
actual usage rate may vary due to bather load and weather conditions. If the pool water is
out of balance, it can use more sanitizer than is necessary. Test your water to be sure
the pH is between 7.4 and 7.8, with the total alkalinity at least 80 ppm.
|
| High Levels Of Organic Wastes |
If there are high
levels of organic wastes (body oils, algae, etc) in the pool it will create a large
sanitizer demand. If either of these conditions exist, shock your pool with 1lb of Breakout
or 1 ½ lbs of Breakout 35 or Quick Clear.
|
| Improper Chlorinator or Brominator Operation. |
Check to make sure
that the feed rate on the chemical feeder is set at the proper level for your pool size
and bather load. If it is set too high, the sanitizer level can increase dramatically. If
so, adjust accordingly.
|
| Odors |
Chlorine Odors – High Chloramine Levels |
Chloramines are
unwanted chemical compounds formed when free chlorine molecules combine with bather wastes
such as body oils, hair oils, perspiration, etc., etc. When the pool’s free,
available chlorine is insufficient to oxidize the chloramines, you will have the
characteristic chlorine odor. To resolve, shock the pool with 1 lb of Breakout or 1
½ lbs or Breakout 35 or Quick Clear.
|
| Musty Odors |
Algae growth or high
bacteria levels can lead to a musty, moldy smell. The solution is to eliminate the algae
(see section on algae) and shock the water with 1 lb of Breakout or 1 ½ lbs or Breakout
35 or Quick Clear to kill any bacteria.
|
| Mildew Odors |
A smell that is
closer to mildew might, in fact be mildew on pool covers or in deck crevices where water
has been standing for long periods of time. The cure is to follow your nose to the source
and take corrective measures. See your professional pool dealer for suggestions.
|
